The vibrant football conurbation of North-Rhine-Westphalia is undergoing a spell of profound change. It is, in fact, so densely packed with clubs that a few short train hops took you all over a weekend of derbies and days of destiny.

Cologne are the club who would most welcome an about-turn in fortune, after a calamitous end to the last campaign culminated in relegation in Lukas Podolski's swansong season. Podolski, now of Arsenal, was a rare beacon of professionalism in a ramshackle squad ...

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