There are two things I like most about visiting a new ground - the sensation you first get when you see it close up from the outside, particularly at night, with people scurrying to and fro, and the experience of emerging from the labyrinth of tunnels and stairs into the stadium itself, with the shock of colour and sound.

When you do this at one of the famous grounds, a sort of wonderment accompanies the moment, making you feel sorry for people who don't like or understand football. But ...

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